Rat control in East London

What rats look like

The brown rat is a big, heavy-set rodent, often around 40 cm from nose to tail tip. It has a blunt snout, small furry ears that sit close to the head, and a thick, scaly tail that's darker on top and a little shorter than its body. A young rat can pass for a mouse at a glance, but its head and feet look oversized for its body.

Size

Body around 20–27 cm, tail a little shorter

Colour

Brown to grey-brown, paler grey underneath

Breeding

Usually 6–10 young a litter, several litters a year

Lifespan

Usually about a year in the wild

Diet

Almost anything, and they need water most days

Signs of rats

• Large droppings

  Dark, spindle-shaped droppings around 10–14 mm long, often in groups along walls, near bins or in lofts.

• Burrows and runs

  Holes in soil banks, under decking, sheds or paving, with worn paths through grass and greasy smears along walls where rats travel.

• Gnawing damage

  Chewed doors, skirting, pipes, cables or bin lids, often with rough edges and coarse tooth marks.

• Noises and footprints

  Heavy scratching or gnawing in walls, floors and ceilings at night, and footprints or tail marks in dust or mud.

• Rats seen in daylight

  Rats mostly come out at night, so seeing one during the day can point to a larger population nearby.

Life cycle and breeding

Brown rats breed all year round wherever there's food and shelter. A female can have her first litter at around three months old and mate again soon after giving birth, so numbers climb fast.

1. Pregnancy

   Pregnancy lasts about three weeks. The female gives birth in a nest of grass, paper or insulation, at the end of a burrow or in a hidden void.

2. Pups

   A litter is usually 6–10 pups, born blind and hairless. Their eyes open at around two weeks.

3. Following the adults

   From about three weeks old they start leaving the nest and following adults along the same runs, learning where the food is.

4. Breeding age

   They're ready to breed at around two to three months old. Most wild rats live about a year, with several litters in that time.

Where rats live and how they get in

Outside, brown rats dig burrows in soft ground under sheds, decking, paving and overgrown corners, usually close to water and a steady food supply. Across East London many also live in the sewers and older drains. Indoors they settle in floor voids, wall cavities and behind kitchen units, and they stick to the same routes along walls and fences rather than crossing open ground.

• Through broken or missing air bricks into the void under a suspended timber floor.
• Up through cracked or disconnected drains, or a pipe left open after a kitchen or bathroom refit.
• Under doors with a worn threshold, as a young rat can squeeze through a gap of around 15 mm.
• By gnawing round an existing gap in a plastic pipe, vent cover or rotten door to make it bigger.
• By climbing drainpipes, ivy and rough brickwork to reach gaps at the roofline.

Why it matters

How rat control works

1. 1

   Survey and identification

   We confirm rat activity from droppings, runs, burrows and damage, and work out whether rats are living outside, inside or coming up through the drains.

2. 2

   Secure baiting

   Professional-use rodenticides are placed in secure bait stations along active runs, sited where children, pets and wildlife cannot reach them.

3. 3

   Proofing and repairs

   We point out entry points such as broken air bricks, gaps under doors and damaged or disused drains, and explain which repairs will keep rats out.

4. 4

   Follow-up and prevention

   Follow-up visits check bait take until activity stops, and remaining bait is then removed. We finish with advice on waste storage and housekeeping to prevent a return.

What you can do yourself

• Find what's feeding them

  Walk round at dusk and look for what's drawing them in, such as split bin bags, cooked scraps in the compost, pet food left out or chicken feed. Cut that off first and everything else works better.

• Pre-bait rat traps

  Rats are wary of anything new, so put rat-size snap traps along their runs with bait but unset for a few days, then set them. Always place traps inside a box or tunnel so pets and birds can't get to them.

• Bait boxes only

  If you use poison, buy only products sold for amateur use and follow the label exactly. Use a tamper-resistant bait box, keep it away from children and pets, and remove it once the activity stops.

• Protect yourself

  Rat urine can carry leptospirosis, so wear gloves when clearing up, cover any cuts and wash your hands afterwards. Don't sweep or hoover droppings dry; damp them down with disinfectant first.

Prevention

• Keep bin lids closed, put rubbish bags inside bins rather than on the ground, and clear up spilt food waste.
• Avoid feeding birds on the ground, and clear away any bird food left at the end of the day.
• Replace broken air bricks and vent covers, and make sure external doors fit closely.
• Repair damaged drains and manhole covers, and make sure disused drains are properly sealed during building work.
• Cut back overgrown areas and clear piles of timber and rubbish where rats can shelter.

Rats are active all year, but they are often noticed more in autumn and winter as they move towards buildings for warmth and food.

Common myths

• Myth: You're never more than six feet from a rat.

  The truth: It's an old saying, not a measurement. Rats are common in London, but they gather where there's food, water and shelter, not evenly everywhere.

• Myth: Only dirty houses get rats.

  The truth: Clean homes get rats too, usually through a drain fault or a gap in the building. The fix is finding the way in, not more scrubbing.

• Myth: Poison sends rats outside looking for water.

  The truth: It doesn't. Rats usually die where they feel safe, often in the nest under a floor or in a wall, which is why there can be a smell for a while.

Questions about rats